Jakarta, 03 March 2026 – The future of dermatological research in Southeast Asia has reached a transformative milestone. apt. Pietradewi Hartrianti, M. Pharm., PhD., Head of the i3L Skin Innovation and Research Center (Skinovation), has been officially announced as a recipient of the prestigious LABORÉ Research Grant 2025.

The grant recognizes her groundbreaking project: “Development of an Indonesian Ethno‑Specific 3D Reconstructed Human Epidermis (RhE) Model from Donor Keratinocytes for Improved Sensitization Testing.” This research aims to address a critical blind spot in global cosmetic science: the lack of physiological representation of Indonesian skin in standardized safety testing.

Bridging the Ethnic Gap

For decades, the global cosmetic industry has relied on benchmarks derived from Caucasian skin models or animal testing. However, skin is not “one size fits all.” Indonesian skin possesses unique phenotypic traits that influence its response to allergens and active ingredients, ranging from specific melanin distribution to distinct barrier function.

“Current testing methods fail to capture the complex physiology of diverse populations,” said Dr. Pietradewi. Most available 3D Reconstructed Human Epidermis (RhE) models are based on Caucasian donors. Our goal is to create a model that truly reflects Indonesian skin, ensuring that safety and efficacy testing are accurate for our local population.

Global Recognition and Regulatory Shift

The move toward 3D skin models is part of a massive global shift in regulatory standards. The Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) has officially recognized 3D Reconstructed Human Epidermis (RhE) models through specific Test Guidelines such as TG 431 and TG 439.

This new approach is rapidly replacing traditional animal tests, such as the Draize test. In line with global trends, Indonesia’s BPOM has also begun modernizing its requirements. Recent decrees in 2025 emphasize the use of scientifically validated testing in for cosmetic notifications and claims. 

The Innovation at i3L Skinovation

Under Dr. Pietradewi’s leadership at i3L’s Skinovation, the team will utilize primary keratinocytes (skin cells) from Indonesian donors to grow a multi-layered, 3D skin equivalent. Unlike traditional 2D cell cultures, which are flat and lack complexity, this 3D model mimics the actual stratified structure of human skin, allowing for more predictive and human-relevant data.

Commercial & R&D Opportunities for Indonesia

This project represents a turning point for the Indonesian cosmetic landscape, opening several strategic doors. 

This research paves the way for the first-ever commercialized Indonesian 3D skin model. This can be distributed to local and regional labs, providing a localized alternative to expensive, imported Western skin models.

The development of Indonesian ethno-specific skin models would also empower local brands to validate their claims specifically for Indonesian people on a biologically accurate model, reducing the need for costly overseas testing. Which would encourage personalised beauty.

This project also acts as a catalyst for international investment for global brands looking to enter the Indonesian market, which will seek out these ethno-specific models to optimize their formulas for the 270+ million people in the region.

Conclusion

“Successful completion will yield a scientifically and industrially significant model,” Dr. Pietradewi concludes. “We are moving from being consumers of global technology to being providers of ethno-specific scientific solutions. This is the future of predictive cosmetic testing in Indonesia.”