Jakarta, 31 March 2026 – In today’s beauty industry, trends evolve rapidly and constantly change. For example, when a new ingredient or claim trend emerges, it doesn’t take long for brands to compete by releasing new products to follow it. However, behind every product launch, there’s a long, unseen process: product development and efficacy testing. Product R&D isn’t just about finding new formulas and “mixing” ingredients to create new products. It’s a long, complex process. Behind this process are several technical steps that must be completed before efficacy testing can be carried out.

Starting from Design Study 

Every good research study begins with a study design. A study design is a systematic framework or plan that explains how research will be conducted to answer research questions. What is to be proven? Who are the subjects? What are the parameters for success? These questions are then developed into a structured study design. Study design involves more than just selecting a testing method; it encompasses the entire research strategy, from objectives, population, variables, measurement methods, subject criteria, to statistical analysis.

A well-thought-out study design will produce relevant results aligned with the objectives to be addressed and demonstrated through the research. Strengthening planning in study design is crucial because, without strong planning, testing risks produce biased, meaningless, and unusable data. Study design is the researcher’s primary responsibility to design honest and accountable research. Furthermore, the study design must be developed based on the research background and objectives. It must align with the research aims. Then, in the study design, the methods are planned in detail, starting from the study components, study duration, sample preparation, subject criteria, evaluation methods, data collection methods, measurements, calculations, expected results, and the detailed project timeline. In addition to scientific aspects, the preparation of the study design must also consider risks and ethical aspects so that the research is not only valid in terms of methodology but also safe and in accordance with research regulations and ethical standards. 

When a Claim Requires Human Subject: Ethics Is Mandatory 

Not all claims can be proven solely through laboratory testing. For example, if a product wants to prove its effectiveness in brightening, reducing wrinkles, or removing acne scars. To obtain the data, research must involve human subjects. When humans are involved as subjects, the research must meet ethical requirements. 

Any research involving humans must ensure that the rights, safety, and welfare of humans as subjects are protected. In addition, a complete explanation of the research objectives, conditions for participation, reasons for selecting participants, research procedures and information, risks/side effects, and benefits for participants as subjects must be clearly communicated because participation must be voluntary. This information and consent are compiled as informed consent, and researchers must ensure the protection of subjects’ personal data. In addition, the research protocol must be reviewed and approved by an ethics committee before the research can begin. 

Ethics Are Not Just a Formality 

Ethics is often perceived as merely an administrative requirement before research begins. More than that, ethics is a clear form of moral responsibility towards the subject. Research ethics are moral and professional principles that govern how research is conducted to avoid harming subjects, maintain scientific integrity, and ensure fairness. Ethics are essential in research to ensure that the research process does not compromise the safety, rights, and dignity of individuals. The core values in research ethics include respecting individual autonomy, maximizing benefits and minimizing risks, doing no harm, treating all subjects fairly, and reporting data honestly and with integrity. 

To ensure these values are upheld, all research involving humans must be reviewed by an ethics committee, an independent body that assesses whether a study meets moral and scientific standards. The ethics committee will assess the feasibility of the research comprehensively, starting with the balance between risks and benefits, the clarity of information in the informed consent document, and the readiness of subject-protection mechanisms. If potential discrepancies are found, the protocol can be revised to ensure it is approved in accordance with applicable values. This process does take time because it is carried out in depth and objectively, but without the Ethics Committee’s approval, the research cannot be conducted legally or ethically. 

Good Laboratory Practice and Good Clinical Practice 

In non-clinical research or laboratory testing, Good Laboratory Practice (GLP) standards are used. GLP is a standard that regulates the quality system for laboratory processes, including how non-clinical studies are planned, conducted, monitored, recorded, and reported. GLP is needed to ensure data integrity, so that each test result can be audited, validated, and scientifically accounted for in regulatory compliance. It regulates the laboratory’s organizational structure, personnel responsibilities, implementation of standard operating procedures (SOPs), method validation, equipment calibration, data documentation, and Quality Assurance functions. Without GLP, research risks producing inconsistent, poorly documented, and difficult-to-replicate data, thereby reducing its credibility. 

Meanwhile, research involving human participants must follow Good Clinical Practice (GCP) standards. GCP is an international standard that regulates the design, conduct, recording, and reporting of clinical research to protect the rights and safety of subjects while ensuring the reliability of clinical data. GCP is necessary because research involving humans has much greater ethical responsibilities and legal consequences than laboratory research. This standard regulates ethical committee approval, informed consent, researcher qualifications, detailed research protocols, study monitoring, data management, and adverse event reporting. Without GCP, research risks violating subjects’ rights, causing harm, and producing data that is scientifically and legally unacceptable. 

Thus, GLP and GCP are not merely technical procedures, but rather systems that ensure that research is conducted in a controlled and responsible manner and produces reliable data. 

Timeline Starting from Clear Planning 

The most appropriate step to begin research is to develop a comprehensive plan before conducting the research. Having an overview of what you want to research and the claims you want to prove will make it easier to develop a process flow, both before and during the research. The timeline serves as an initial overview for developing a research strategy, ensuring each process runs in a focused manner with realistic duration estimates. Without clear direction, research risks being ineffective and taking longer than it should. 

If each process is planned from the outset, the brand can coordinate more quickly with the laboratory or research partner to develop a research strategy, thereby gaining a better understanding of the services required to meet its requirements. Conversely, if new claims are decided midway or even at the end of the research, the research will feel hindered because the planning was not well-structured from the start. An efficient timeline always begins with a clear direction.